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Israeli-born Nathan was previously manager at NYC’s beloved Via Carota and New Jerseyan Jordan Anderson was chef at Greg Baxtrom’s Olmsted and Maison Yaki. Despite the immense challenges facing the restaurant industry at that time, Nathan and Anderson opened their permanent restaurant on Orchard Street on the Lower East Side in July 2021.
Nathan grew up dining at a restaurant named Sami VeSusu in Beersheba, named after a popular children’s TV show and one of the very first Arabic-language programs broadcast on Israeli television. The show had a message of peace and unity. This is reflected in the restaurant’s wide-reaching influences, which span the Mediterranean and Middle East.
The Orchard Street space is tiny, and our table consisted of two bar stools facing a small window ledge, with wine bottles at our feet. Guests who arrive early for reservations are told to wait outside; there is no bar, and the interior is packed. The kitchen is entirely visible, the dining room is crowded and buzzing, and there are no frills. There is a hard-won spirit to the place: the service is brisk, but the focus is firmly on good food in a cosy, welcoming environment. It isn't the sort of place you go for a quiet conversation or spacious table, but the space has an energy all its own.
We settled in with a chilled red wine and, taking the waiter’s suggestion, ordered several small plates. We started with the muhammara, an excellent roasted red pepper dip, and warm pita (some of the best I have had), followed by scallop and stone fruit skewers, mussels served over sourdough, and the tuna tostada. Each of these was a surprising take on a familiar dish. The mussels were served cold with aioli, something I found jarring at first but became quite addictive after a few bites. The tostada was served with watermelon, cantaloupe, and jalapeño - it was fresh and perfect for a summer night. The standout was the large plate we ordered: hanger steak, served over creamed corn with caramelised onions. The steak was deeply flavourful, cooked perfectly, and the corn was phenomenal.
Sami & Susu is not a restaurant for a leisurely, formal dinner. It is small, busy, and a little unconventional, but that is part of its appeal. The menus change with the seasons, and I look forward to seeing what winter brings.
DETAILS
Sami & Susu
190 Orchard St, New York, NY 10002
Website: https://www.samiandsusu.com/
Rating: ★★★
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